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Zion National Park - Utah

 What it's all about

Zion bears a biblical name as do many of its hikes and features... thanks, apparently, to early religious settlers in the area.

Trees clinging to cliff tops
The area is also unceded native American territory.  Like most of Utah, Zion is about the passage of eons, water and sandstone.  The cliffs are red and tower over you from all corners of the Zion canyon, which is the park's main attraction.

There's plenty of wildlife in the park too... squirrels, turkeys, mule deer, birds and lizards are all easy to find in the park.


The Virgin river snakes its way along the canyon floor - its waters are an emerald-grey, making the water attractive and photogenic.

The Virgin river
The park roads are in superb shape and are picturesque... and thanks to the Park's no-cars policy, traffic is sparse - mostly shuttle buses.

Shuttles

This park is so well organized it feels like Disneyland - seriously.   It's 100% overrun by tourists. To accommodate so many visitors, the park's workings have been spit-and-polished to the point of spoon-feeding.

You can still find many a rustic/authentic view, but, unless you're visiting in December, you'll have to share it with 1000 people, no matter which of the hikes/features you choose to tackle.

To make the park as accessible as possible, many hikes are paved - even the tough ones.  Yup - paved.  You may still have to grind out a steep ascent... but it'll be on graded switchbacks, not a scrambling, nerve-testing climb.  For the super-fit, this may come off somewhat contrived....but, there's a flip side to everything - folks who would not normally be able to access the more remote areas are now able to do so.

I did however encounter some hikers doing a particularly challenging section of a hike (one that was not paved) who were, at a glance,  ill-equipped to be there (power to them)... accessibility can lead to problems too, I guess.

Paved switchbacks
Challenging sections

Zion offers impressive views, interesting rock features, cleanliness and a commitment to accessibility.

 Canyon Overlook Trail

This is a short-yet-rewarding hike that affords hikers fabulous views of the canyon, including sole overhangs, sheer cliffs and beehive/pancake-like rock formations.  It's a worthy stop, but beware the parking nightmare!

Trail sign - zoom in for details
Cool overhangs with water seepage
Beehive-like rock features
Cool cliff-hugging trails
Interesting slot canyon views
Sheer cliffs - keep a hand on young kids
A great canyon sunset point - el romantico!

The Narrows

Kiwis love tramping in rivers... but it isn't as common in North America... not sure why.  Here's your chance to get your feet wet - literally.

Turquoise bliss
River bed stone - generally quite worn/even
The water is frigid, even in September when we did this hike... we guessed 55deg F/12deg C.  You can rent special neoprene boots in the town of Springdale from a handful of outfitters... but we considered this gear optional (and expensive), so 4/5 of us just wore shoes we could dry out the next day.

The entire walk is in the Virgin river bed, and many sections are quite slippery, so avoid bringing those ratty old court shoes with no grip... hikers or approach shoes with ankle support are definitely best, but, this said, our kids were closed-toe Crocs and I even dared to wear my "safety flip-flops" (I had hikers in my backpack which I never pulled out) without incident.

The river snakes through tall cliffs that are quite impressive - if it weren't for the throngs of fellow walkers, they'd make for some splendid photography ;)

Mind-boggling cliffs

Some sections are quite deep... but most are below-the-knee for adults (in September,  without rains).

We did manage to score a few photos that'll leave you with the impression we had the place to ourselves... a clever photographer and a little patience can do great things!

Nathan at a mini waterfall
Pretty rapids and a grotto
Caves, arches and splendid colours
Some dry sections
Spot Mike and Parker?
Crazy overhangs, vivid colours, spot Mike and Parker again!
Cool caves!
But in reality...

People!

Angel's Landing

I bicycled into the park for this hike... we stayed at an RV park south of Springdale.   Biking upto and in Zion is a breeze - the views are sublime, the roads are in great shape and cars give you a wide berth.

Biking into Springdale
Springdale
No traffic in the park
Roadside wildlife
Cool roadside cacti
My ride into Springdale was 17K, then I hopped a shuttle (and threw my bike on the shuttle's front bike rack), passed through the park gate by bike, and took a shuttle to this hike.  Speed limits in the park are very low - I could have biked to the hike in nearly the same amount of time... so I biked back instead  - live and learn ;)

This is a destination hike with incredible views throughout... it's paved 80% of the way... but that's ok because the last 20% is the best part... and because you shed 70% of the people when you do the last part - presumably because of the exposure/apparent risk - it's mainly the domain of 20-somethings.

In total, the elevation gain is 1500'.  They say 3-5hrs... I was hauling butt, and I climbed creek-to-peak in 1hr, stopped for a snack and a breather at the top for a 1/2hr, and then did a 45min descent... total 2.25hrs.

Main trailhead sign - zoom-in for details
Trail sign - zoom in for details
Carved-out section, random walkers
Distance from trailhead is no-big-deal... but it's all vertical!
Cliff face on ascent with switchbacks
Near Scout lookout - 80% of the way up - far fewer people
Chain handholds, sheer cliffs
3' wide sections with sheer cliffs on either side
The final ascent

Yowzers - 1500' sheer cliffs!
Vertigo-inducing panorama

This hike, even with its countless hikers, is well worth your time and will not disappoint!  Bring plenty of water and, I humbly suggest, leave your hiking pole at home - you won't need it.


Comments

  1. Wow. I am super nostalgic for the southwest after this post. Are you heading to lake powell next??

    Katrina

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. We're there as I write this post ;) glad to have illicited some nostalgia - what a spot!

      Delete
    2. Feeling the same nostalgia over here!

      Delete

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