Mt. Triglav - At the Top of Slovenia
The last major hike we did as a family was up Mt. Catamount in upstate NY. Actually, that hike was in preparation for summiting Mt. Triglav - the kids got new hiking boots, so we needed to make sure their new gear would work for each of them during Triglav's long haul of 12km in and 12km out.
Mt. Catamount in upstate NY - June 2023
Triglav is Slovenia's national symbol - it is the highest peak in Slovenia (and was the highest peak in the former Yugoslavia). It's on the Slovenian national flag - the mountain peaks at 2,800m (9,200ft).
Note the emblem in the upper left corner - the tri-peak of Triglav
This is not the world's highest peak by any means - Mt. Kilimangaro, for instance, peaks at 5,900m... but Triglav is a very respectable climb, and one that puts you well above the clouds most days of the year.
Some fun with a topside pic
Most of Triglav is a hike... but the last leg is a climb requiring a helmet, harness, and via ferrata gear. We do not recommend this hike for young families - the shortest/easiest access is a punishing 4-5hr tramp out of the valley requiring a 5000ft of elevation gain... not for the uninitiated.
We selected the Rudno Polje trailhead - a gravel road start
It is possible to round-trip a Triglav summit in one day, but doing so is very difficult. 24km in/out with a total elevation change of 10,000ft including some legit climbing (requiring gear) is an Epic journey of ~12 consecutive hours on your feet - a little too aggressive for our crew!
Forest trail for the first hour or so...
We chose to sleep in a mountain-top hikers hut (a "dom") instead. This allowed us to break-up the trip into 2 parts - DAY 1: summit + sleep = 13km distance and 1,500m elevation change, DAY 2: downclimb = 11km distance and 1,100m elevation change.
The first scree watershed - a saddle between two adjacent peaks
We hiked this in the peak of peak periods - late July... as you can see from the pictures above, the mountain was not crowded. Several mountain shelters can accommodate over 100 sleepers a night... but you don't 'feel it' on the slopes.
A stunning natural habitat
The terrain was quite varied - many scree sections though (even in the lower mountain passes), so we definitely recommend proper hiking boots, right from the start - a twisted ankle would ruin this trip for everyone!
Parker working the first ferrata section
The hike isn't all about the tri-peak of Triglav - it's also about the other smaller peaks, saddles and balconies along the way... did I mention the stunning views?
Framing is everything when describing an 8hr hike to teenagers - they need to know there will be rewards along the way - from fresh water springs to eye-popping views - to make it all worthwhile. Motivating young people to tackle a hike like this is a dance.
Just when the kids were starting to feel gassed, they saw the roof of our hut (Dom) poking above the scree line... and then Parker raced ahead to "see if we were really there".
... and we were! Check-in at the hut is from 3-5pm... we arrived at 3:15👌.
Our reception was at least a little gruff - apparently mountain air doesn't make everyone cheery and resplendent! We bought and then brought sleeping bag liners from Canada... but our grumpy mountain hostess failed to ask if we had done so, charged us for hers, and then refused to refund the difference. Oh well.
The Dom Planika shelter 400m in elevation from the top of Mt Triglav
Once we got settled, it was time to attempt the summit - with plenty of daylight left, we lightened our load and set off for the final 1.hr/ea way summit and return.
Nathan beginning the summit hike
The Dom Planika hut is above the cloud line... making it possible to see this:
The boys working through the first few upper ferrata sections
Which sort of leaves one wondering... do I really need to summit this mountain - isn't this enough? For us, the answer is YES... and... no. Each of us has a different comfort level with climbing and a different level of gas left in the tank.
Chelsea working the first peak ridge
Triglav literally means "The 3-headed one". It has 3 distinct peaks.
Cheryl working it too...
Cheryl feeling pretty darned good about her first ascent!
Chelsea resting above the clouds before tackling the next pitch
The terrain is intermittently loose and solid. Even though it has been adapted for non-climbers, in some areas the peak ridge narrows to just 2ft with sheer drops off both sides. It takes a little intestinal fortitude to push through.
Parker working the 2nd ridge with a Belgian friend we made
The ridge climbs are steep and exposed... I had to remind our crew to use the via ferrata as safety only and not to rely on them as hand or foot holds.
Me and Nathan on the final ridge - note the shadows - the ridge is so steep that the late afternoon sun was blocked by the ridge above us!
Once atop the mountain, the views are jaw-dropping (on a good weather day).
Watching a cloud river flow into a valley... very similar to a river flowing over a water fall!
The boys at the summit!
A "cloudfall" - quite a sight to see - worth every step it took!
Now, it must be said that there are much higher mountains and that we are not hardcore climbers by any means - I did some outdoor climbing as a teenager and then Cheryl and I climbed a lot when we lived in New Zealand... but this was not that. This was a happy balance of exhilaration, safety and risk exposure - just the right blend for our family.
Sunset from Dom Planika
The supper food served at the Dom was decent - from Goulash to sausages. Breakfast was ham, cheese 'n eggs served in a variety of ways.
Dom Vodnikov - 2/3rds of the way up from the valley - has a fresh water spring
This truly is a must-do in Slovenia for any able-bodied, fit visitor.
Fueling-up on our down-hike at Dom Vodnikov
It's worth the inconvenience of wearing your hiking boots on the airplane!
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